[singleminded]

This was my solution, didn't think of your idea it's a lot easier.
john hood

[deecourse]

Hey Thomas,

thank you very much!!!

Greetz
Dirk

[Thomas]

Here they are! Cheers, Thomas

[Rick Parkington]

Ah yes, Dirk, it looks like you do! On a three brush dynamo you still have a cutout (under the brush cover) but regulation is controlled by the third brush and the headlight switch. The 'Pitman book of the Sunbeam' contains a wiring diagram for that system, someone has probably already copied it onto here somewhere.
In good condition - and provided you have the correct switch - it works fine it's just a bit more primitive than the later dynamo systems. Also you must not run the engine with the battery removed or the dynamo can self-excite and burn out. The original switch usually has 4 positions - Off, Charge, High and Low. This is because the system's ability to power full lighting or regulate charge for low power demand for long periods is marginal. 'Off' means the battery is not receiving charge and should be used if you rarely ride with lights on to save the battery being overcharged. 'On' is useful for topping up the battery if lights are used regularly. High is headlight and low is side or pilot light, and i charges in both of these positions.
cheers Rick   

[deecourse]

Hey Rick,

I was wondering why I couldn't find a regulator on my motorbike. So I probably have an alternator with 3 brushes.
Yes, the wiring is not rocket science. I wanted to check whether the old wiring is also correct. I'll follow the existing wiring for now and see if it works. Thanks anyway!

Wish you a nice weekend!
Dirk

[Rick Parkington]

That's great, Dirk, well done!
No I don't have  a particular wiring diagram for a '37 but all 6v dynamo bikes are pretty generic -  I'm guessing you have a 2 brush dynamo and regulator box rather than a 3 brush dynamo? A mate of mine has just fitted a BSA M20 loom to his '35 Model 9. He found it was close enough to fit with a few minor alterations and gave him the right connectors and wire colours - pre war bikes tend to be mostly black wire but he said for fault tracing it's handy if you have standard postwar Lucas colours, which is a fair point. But point is that if you're stuck a 40s BSA wiring diagram would probably tell you what you need to  know.
Cheers Rick   

[deecourse]

Hi Rick,

thanks for your tip! It worked for me too!!! My kickstarter is now working again. I haven't started the bike yet but mechanically it works again.

Now I'm going to do a new wiring (with beautiful textile-coated cables  ). Do you have a wiring diagram for the Lion?

Best regards
Dirk

[Rick Parkington]

Hi Dirk, sorry for the slow reply. The problem looks to be the mainshaft, the spines should stop at the plain, reduced diameter section of the shaft but the clutch ratchet as indented into the next section where the ratchet gear sits allowing everything to move in further. That's a similar problem to mine except in my case the female splines in the ratchet were worn. The options are a replacement shaft, weld/remachine (but I suspect it should be hardened after) or try the circlips!
Cheers Rick

[deecourse]

Hi Rick,

The idea with the piston pin retaining ring is not a bad one. I would have to test that at my leisure. I just pushed the components without the clutch basket on top. You can see quite clearly that all the components are pushed together completely when the nut is tightened without any play remaining. I was wondering if the shaft is not seated correctly? Could that be the case?

Best regards
Dirk

[Rick Parkington]

Hmmmm, well that all looks okay.... Part of the reason I'm a bit vague is because my own 1932 9A kickstart ratchet - the bit in the clutch backplate - was damaged so it has never been 100% right and that's my only 4 speed reference source but I think the way it should work is that the (female) splined part of the ratchet only goes onto the shaft as far as the end of the gearbox shaft (male) spline, if there is some  wear it can maybe go a bit further and lock everything up. On my clutch the female spline was damaged and the way I got round it was to put some wire (gudgeon pin type) circlips on the shaft, they were small enough to fit inside the female part pf the ratchet but strong enough to stop the splines without being crushed out of place. I wonder if the ends of your splines have worn and a similar trick might work?
Cheers Rick 

[deecourse]

Hi Rick,

Thank you for your reply. I haven't really understood the system yet. The clutch basket shouldn't be able to be pushed any further onto the shaft from a certain point, should it? The spring on the kickstarter slot is there to ensure that it rotates freely when it kicks back.
Am I perhaps missing a disc that locks the clutch basket? Unfortunately I don't have a drawing to see which discs and parts belong there.

Enclosed you will find a few pictures of the dismantled state.

Best regards
Dirk

[Rick Parkington]

Hi Dirk,
Something is not right there, the nut should be tightened fully without preventing anything from turning. It seems like something is worn or missing, reducing clearance behind the clutch basket. Without the parts in front of me I'm struggling to remember exactly how it all works but I wonder if you have the correct thrust washer - the one behind the clutch that rests against the gearbox bearing? Otherwise maybe the ratchet piece fitted in the clutch backplate is out of place or worn.
Cheers Rick   

[deecourse]

Hi @all,
I have a problem with the kickstarter on my Sunbeam Lion. The release of the kickstarter did not work. After opening the primary case, I realised that the nut on the clutch basket was completely screwed tight. If I loosen the nut a little, the release of the kickstarter works again. Is this correct? If so, how much clearance should the nut (or the clutch basket) have? Does the nut need to be secured separately?

Best regards
Dirk