Morning Beamers!
Whilst the cylinder head is away being sorted, I have begun work on the electrical system. The book's diagram is complex so I have converted it (for the Model 8) into a colour diagram. Could you have a look and see if I have got anything wrong or need to add?
Have a great weekend
The red dotted line from H goes to the dip switch but should not go to the headlamp bulb.
L comes from dip switch and then to low beam OK.
N comes from dip switch and then to high beam,not shown on your diagram as far as I can see.
apart from that it looks OK..John
Thanks John - how does this look?
looks like it matches the diagram in the book,,,unless you have a panel tank ;D :'(..john
My headlamp switch has a nifty little wiring diagram incorporated:
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/iansoady/bike/Sunbeam/light%20switch/IMG_2187_zpsiu6rifo8.jpg)
Your diagram looks pretty good to me.
What had me confused for a while is that the three-brush dynamo has the field windings earthed (via the headlight switch and, for half-charge purposes via the resistor incorporated within it). I'm more used to the field windings being provided with a positive feed as on post-war dynamos.
I did measure the resistor and it came out as 8 ohms if that's of any interest. I was advised to convert the dynamo to 2-brush operation but preferred to try to keep it original. We'll see how that turns out!
I have discarded the cut out contained within the dynamo and bypassed all the half charge resistor and sprung copper contacts. Instead I have added an external MCR1 (which appeared later in t he thirties) regulaltor. I was really forced to do this because of the quality of the H52 headlamp bits bits but Ian was lucky he started with good stuff. I worked out a different wiring connection so that the half charge switch position does nothing. I think I would have made this mod had I owned the machine in the later thirties on the advice of my father who worked at Joe Lucas (he designed the Alto horn)
I think if I was going to use the Sunbeam as an everyday bike I would probably do the same. It just seemed that keeping it original was more of a challenge!
One thing I have done with all my restorations is to use an earth wire instead of relying on the frame. If you have done a good job on re-painting, you will have created some lovely insulation! You could, of course, take all the joints back to bare metal and use some conductive paint, but I think the earth wire is more reliable. It is very easy to disguise if you are concerned about originality.
P.
Agreed Paul, and I always do the same. I rewired the Model 10 using all black thinwall 16.5 amp cable from Vehicle Wiring Products, encased in their braided sleeving: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/514/braided-sleeving which is not original but looks the part and doesn't stand out like harness tape or other modern types.
It's also important to ensure that the engine / dynamo etc are well earthed - my magneto actually has an earth connection which I've used to take a wire back to a common earth point inside the battery box.
I have to confess that my search for authenticity has faltered there and I've used chocolate strip connectors although they're invisible till the top is removed.
Guys just come across this post. I am trying to figure out how to convert my H52 4-position switch into a 3-position to be able to run a regulator (missing out the 'C' position). I am struggling to work it out and wondered if one of you had a basic diagram I could follow? Appreciate this post is quite old now.
Really appreciate any help you could give on this.
Thanks again
Jamie
Will this help.
John