Ask your Technical Questions Here

Started by kelper99, February 28, 2011, 03:00:17 PM

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billhaworth@aol.com

John,
Thanks for the information and picture. That helps a lot. I have the tapped hole in the timing chest but there is just a union screwed in there (the engine is not fully assembled....yet!)
So seems I need to try to source this breather.
I guess it is just a one way valve, so now I think I need to find a pattern or drawing to get one made
Perhaps some one can help?
Regaerds,
Bill

singleminded

#15
Hi Bill if your engine has a breather it will lurk behind the timing case as per the pic.
I have a 1932 9A and i think that your bike is the same cases, not all seem to have the breather though.
The breather body is made in 2 parts, the lower part screws into the crankcase and the top part screws to the bottom.  Inside is a very light spring and a flat plate that flaps up and down .
I don't seem to have a picture of the part off the bike.
John hood

billhaworth@aol.com

I recently acqured a 1934/35 Sunbeam 9A and going through the clubs lists of parts came across the 'crankcase breather parts'
What is the crankcase breather assembly 6963, what does it look like and where is it located? Should I have one on my Model 9A
I appreciate any help you can give
Bill

wessex_man

Hum the clutch stop thing. Talking M6's and 9's. In 1927 beams fitted the knobbly screw chain cases single spring clutch. The chain cases had two effective clutch stops. In 1928 beams went over to the six spring clutch and fitted knobbly chaincases with no clutch stops. In 1929 they added a central clutch stop which as it works on the centre of the clutch it wasn't very good. In 1930 the chaincases changed to the smooth type screwed chain cases and two clutch stops were fitted and they worked effectivly. Its not uncommon to see these later cases fitted to 1928's and 29's. Wanting to keep the correct chaincases I've done a reversable modification the clutch stops I've fabricated are on the E and W cover screws of the inspection cover. They work ok.

109885

Thank you Paul, is it worth refering to 1st gear engagement to mount the clutch stop ?    regards, Thomas

phutton


109885

#10
Hello i have an question about clutch stop. I own an 1928 M5 Longstroke, this has 4 bolt clutch cover and 6 spring clutch. I habe seen in an catalogue there is an single clutch stop for 6 spring clutch in center of 4 bolt cover.  Which models/years  were fitted with this . Is it possible (and convenient)  to mount on my M5,  has anybody an picture of the stop and friction material  used for this 6 spring clutch. Thanks in Advance, Thomasclutchstop.jpgclutchstop.jpg 

shorrog

Hi There
In fact you don't need to log in to see the list of used parts Just click on the links.  The login is for those that manage the list.
Graham

sunbeam

When trying two look at the new and used items for sale, it asks for a user name? Which I cannot remember  or find? Can you help with this?.

jfrith

OK Thank you
Is there any information out there about fitting inverted levers? What holds them into the bars and do I need to buy new cables? Thanks John

phutton

#6
Unfortunately, this is not something we stock - we probably should, but there are so many things we are trying to do at present. If you feel inclined to get a batch made - 20 perhaps - we would happily buy the surplus from you (provided the price is not sky-high!). If you are happy to do this, let me know, and I will send you a drawing.


jfrith

Going to be fitting inverted levers to 1931 Model 9
Will have drill holes in handle bars to accept cables
I was going to use grommets but in illustrations I have noticed small plates on the handlebars
Are these availiable? Thanks

Blacky

[color=blacklink=topic=3.msg3#msg3 date=1298905217]
Please feel free to ask your technical questions here and indeed share your own knowledge.

Hopefully as we get up and running our Technical Advisors will join in and provide some useful answers and even some lively conversation.

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phutton

Hi Paul,

Assuming you are referring to the float chamber, you need to check:

1. That the locking screw on the top has been loosened
2. That the float needle is engaged in the hole in the underside of the lid, and
3. The lid is not on cross-threaded.

The important thing is not to use force - just nip it up and tighten the lock-screw.

I hope that helps!

paul garratt

hi there i have a premono block carb and the lid will not screw down tightly on the body, have you any solutions please.

kelper99

Please feel free to ask your technical questions here and indeed share your own knowledge.

Hopefully as we get up and running our Technical Advisors will join in and provide some useful answers and even some lively conversation.

Web-Editor