[Rick Parkington]

Personally I tend to use brown manila envelope paper for gaskets like this because it's substantial enough to work but thin enough not to a) increase end float on things like cam followers/camgears and b) unlike thick gasket paper, doesn't compress. needing re-tightening.
I remember being delighted back in the mid 80s when the cheap brown paper gaskets that came in sets were replaced by lovely quality thick, waxed and marbled grey ones. It took me years to realise that after that change, things like cylinder base nuts needed re-tightening a few times after assembly as the paper compressed, were the thin ones had been fine.
For structural support between stressed components, a metal to metal joint is best - and a spongy cornflakes packet worst - but I think envelope paper is a good compromise - and agreed - I also like Welseal, when needed. But having found the tubes leak and make a very gooey mess in the drawer I was delighted to find you can buy a lifetime supply in a tin...just don't knock it over!
Cheers Rick   

[Thomas]

Hi Ian, for my 1937 Model 9 I always use 0.5mm paper gaskets. Plus a non-hardening sealant like Hylomar or Curil, if you wish. My surfaces are in good condition.
Cheers, Thomas

[Ian Roberts]

Hi Again

I am making a gasket for the timing cover - has anyone suggestions on gasket thickness (which would effect the distance between the oil pump shaft and its connectivity to the magneto sprocket).

Also the thickness of gasket for the oil pump base brass plate and the timing side cover surface.

I had a complete spare Model 8 350cc timing cover with oil pump and removed the brass plate - this had the original thin gasket.

Your opinions would be appreciated.

Regards Ian