[Peter 100]

Russ
Thats all part of the fun of doing things yourself, you learn as you go along. With modern things if it's not working you usually have to replace it with a new part. These old machines it's all nuts, bolts and pieces of metal that can usually be brought back to life with some good old engineering!! 😁 😁 👍
Peter

[Russ]

here's what happens when not wound onto the shaft anti-clockwise....common sense when you think about it....I'm so dim sometimes.....LOL

[Peter 100]

Russ
I think your right it makes sense.
I only messed about with mine a couple of weeks ago and was sure I pulled it up but it must have been down ie anti clockwise to get the tension and the cotter slot lined up.
Must be my age 🙄🙄🤔
Peter

[Russ]

ok so I think I've sussed it out....basically.....it looks as though I made a gaff....the kickstarter / spring need to be wound onto the shaft in an anti clockwise direction....meaning when you kick down the spring will tighten and the energy stored in the spring will return the kick starter to the vertical position.....so I better buy the correct diameter kickstart return spring from the shop as the spring in my bike is only 26.5mm diameter and not 28.575mm which meant when I put it on anti clockwise it was pretty tight and actually wouldn't budge on the downswing

[singleminded]

It could be the return spring, but I've also found a couple of kickstart ratchet springs that are too strong and won't allow the ratchet to do it's job on the return.

[Russ]

me again.....I've redone my clutch new corks etc the clutch disengages the engine from the gearbox nicely although the bike isn't running...cylinder heads off waiting new guides and valves....anyway all I did was put it in gear turned it over by hand watched the piston go up and down pulled the clutch it cranked it again and voila disengages the gearbox from the engine excellent obviously it'll need fine tuning and adjusting of course to eliminate drag etc. but it seems to work as it should....but I do have an issue with the Kickstarter I've replaced the return spring (as you all know) but now it doesn't return at all I push the kickstarter down by hand and release expecting the kickstart to spring back to the start position and nothing it stays put unless I pull it back....it's like the return spring just isn't powerful enough I was wondering if the kickstart ratchet pinion gear is disengaging from the ratchet gear on the back of the rear clutch plate....but before it all gets a bit technical could it simply be the return spring isn't up to snuff or maybe the tang at the bottom of the cover tube has slipped out......just to add my return spring measures across the coils 64mm long x 26.15mm dia x 2.98mm wire thickness does that seem right as the old one I took out was 52mm long x 26.64mm dia x 2.65mm wire thickness a bit small but it did return the kickstarter from the bottom of the stroke but not all the way vertical.....ideas welcome

[singleminded]

I found that i had to remove the outer chaincase and use a screwdriver to lock the quadrant in the return position to be able to get the kickstart lever on, other wise it kept getting pushed in when the kickstart was pushed onto the shaft.

[Peter 100]

Russ
When I put mine back recently I seem to remember after putting the spring pins into the two location holes pulling the kickstarter up against the spring about half a turn. The kickstarter was then in the vertical and the cotter pin slot was lined up.
Peter

[Russ]

just a quickie....should I wind the KS and spring around one before pushing KS home and banging the cotter pin in

[Russ]

Definitely not interference!

P.

Cheers Paul....I wasn't sure...I gently tapped mine home as it was a little tight I'll revist it and give it a gentle linish so I can just put in and out with my fingers 👍

[phutton]

Definitely not interference!

P.

[Russ]

Thanks for the photos I now know how it's put together while I'm on the kickstart is there anything I should know about the positioning/setup of the kickstart quadrant with the clutch engagement gear....oh just one other thing the clutch thrust key that locates in the top clutch plate should it be a loose fit or interference fit....cheers 👍

[singleminded]

I have placed a spare kickstart tube on top of my spare gearbox to make things a bit clearer.
You can see the locating screw in the gearbox which locates in the hole on top of the tube.
the horizontal hole with the allen key in it is the breather hole for the gearbox, the hole in the back of the gearbox can just be seen.
This hole goes all the way through the tube to match with a hole high up in the gearbox wall, in theory it is 'supposed' to try to lubricate the kickstart..it doesn't really do the job though.
To get the tube out you have to heat the rear lug quite a bit, if you don't then you could damage the lug. Re-assembly can be fun if the casing is not hot enough as the casing will soon grip the tube, back to square one again and retry. The best way to re-assemble it is to totally strip the box and heat it, preferably in an oven. Make sure the other half is out and the gearbox is nice and clean, or have a garage oven.

[Russ]

Photos would be very useful cheers John 👍

[singleminded]

Hi Russ.
The kickstart tube is a shrink fit in the gearbox and has an alignment screw to locate it. The spring shroud does not come off the tube, not sure if it is welded on or brazed. the alignment screw is to make sure that that the breather holes for the gearbox align correctly..
To remove the tube you have to heat the rear of the casting and then press or tap the kickstart tube out.
I'll get some photos posted so you can see what is there.
John

[Russ]

you don't need to worry as my cotter pin is always the right way round and my clutch actuator mechanism oiler cup flip lid is happily flipping

[Peter 100]

Russ
Don't know the answer to your question but make sure you put the cotter pin back the right way! 😂 LOL
Hope you get the answer to you question.
Peter

[Russ]

bit of a dim question I know and probably a simple answer can anyone tell me how the Kick start spring retaining tube is removed form a 1927 model 9.....does it unscrew from the casing or is it an interference fit and just pull out or is it held by retaining screws (I haven't seen any).....I can't seem to budge mine.....need to know so I can take the appropriate action and not ruin it.......cheers