Good idea 👍

Have you tried Paul Knight? There may be something in the Used Parts store.

P.

If you have another look at the Shop, you will find the correct washer for the OHV models from 1927 to 1938. It is listed as S1-MB-07, and is Marston part number 3410.

P.

Greetings All
Need a bit of advice. I'm a newbie here on MSCR and not much good on forums tbh. I recently acquired a 500 Lion that had been asleep for a while. It surfaced at auction in Arpil this year, was bought by a dealer, who spruced it up a bit, then sold to me. It acutally seems like a nice bike. tank is clean inside and its an easy starter and all original.

I'm after any diagrams / schematics / drawings of available engine / gearbox internals / workings. I know the SV engines are quite basic but I'm a visual learner and this will help me decide if I want to take certain parts of the engine / gearbbox down to rebuild, etc.
Hope someone out there can help me
Ta

I ordered this item "All SV 500/600cc to 1931" Reference S1-1571 which says 1 3/4" OD 1 1/2" ID so I ordered one ....it's the wrong size....which is fair enough as I got a 1927 M9  so what size do I need? the "Valve cap sealing washer" Reference S1-MB-06 seems more like the correct size although it's not an exhaust sealing washer nor is it for a model 9 anyone know and where can I get a couple.......cheers

You might be better trying to find some rear shoes and machining the width to suit the front.
It will be the only option for me as I have been on the lookout for some front ones for a long time.
Good Luck  ,,John

Since a while I'm looking for a set of forward brake shoes for my M9 1932 as spare. Unfortunatelly this was not successful till now. Because of this, I thought to manufacture a set by my self. The idea is, to mill them out of tool steel. Has somebody in this group experience with that and maybe a CAD/CAM file available?

Regards
Dani

Thanks for your comments, Russ. I will go through them carefully and let you know how I'm doing.

I'm guessing you know the starting procedure for AMAC twin lever carbs assuming you're using the twin levers and not a Twist throttle....did the bike start normally before your troubles or was it always difficult to start? if it did and as you say there's no fuel getting through then it can only be a blocked or gummed up jet or air hole give it a thorough clean buy yourself some carburettor cleaning brushes off eBay to clear out any blockages better still get it ultra sonically cleaned....starting from cold make sure the air lever is closed put the throttle lever about 1/4 to 1/3 open and give the mag lever about a 1/4 from fully retarded.....a tickle or 2 on the carb then give the old girl an couple of gentle turn overs the get it just past compression and give her a solid kick....if it sounded like it was nearly going to go give it a touch more mag and do the same fingers crossed it should go.....be mindful that if you haven't ridden it for a while it may have sumped somewhat that will cause starting issues just drain a half cupful of oil out of the crankcase or indeed drain it all then top up with about 8 / 10 pump fulls to replensish.....I'm having issues with an AMAC 15 PJY at the moment which will no doubt get resolved it 'll just take some experimentation and patience.....good luck

Quote from: singleminded on September 25, 2023, 03:35:50 PMIf you think that the float may be a bit high try rotating the carb on the stub  anti clockwise if the chamber is on the left of the carb, or clockwise if on the right. If your float chamber is a bottom feed type it may be worth taking the lid of to make sure the float is actually floating and not getting stuck. I'm not really knowledgeable on AMAC carbs but this is general testing.
John

That's a good idea John I'll give that a go I've had the whole carb apart it all looks to be there apart from a copper washer that goes under the jet body according to the 1927 Amac parts list the float and needle all look good I'm
sure the needles the correct length and not being stopped by the tickler I'll need to check that the needle clip notch is in the right place there is only one notch ....I'll get it sorted some how...I have the Amal 76/AE carb the bike came with which I can use to get bike running so at least I can make sure the oil system and the ignition system is working...