Hi all! Does anyone know if the logo on the tank was always a transfer or if it was hand painted in gold in the works like the lining?
Cheers, Thomas

Smart 

The sprocket on my crankshaft was starting to get sharp teeth and a replacement was needed. This is a problem with the cush drive because its connection side has a special shape for shock absorption that is difficult to reproduce. And replacements are hard to get. On the other hand, normal hardened sprockets of various sizes are readily available on the market. Instead of replacing the entire unit, I had the original sprocket separated from its cush drive unit and had the latter welded to the new sprocket. This was inexpensive and has worked without any problems ever since.

I'm just curious to know how many have actually survived.....according to the Clubs matrix there are 30 1927 model 9 Sunbeams on the register I understand that these are only the club registered ones but how many were actually made and how many are left including ones not registered anyone got an educated guess

well bit of a damp squib to start with hardly any Sunbeams I have to say considering it was supposed to be the Sunbeam centenary? I guess a combination of the M25 being shut and the miserable weather kept most away still always nice to see the old vintage stuff getting a run out

Yes, the procedure remains the same. I can't tell you something about stellite tipped valves. Better ask G&S. I prefer leaving the material and design as introduced by the works and I see no disadvantage with a cap because it works as it should. But again, no idea about stellite tipped valves.

Hello again Thomas

Thanks for the article. I have a pair of old guides that I refurbished with bronze liners. I will not use them but will instead will make another new set out of correct C.I material and this time I will heat treat them!

I will also follow the practice laid out in your article about rocker and pushrod geometry. The 95L uses hairsprings rather than coils, but the procedure is basically the same.

What is your opinion on using stellite tipped valves without lash caps?

Kind regards

Mark

Very well, Mark! Attached is another article which deals with the guide material because in the first article I talk about bronce guides. Don't use such material. It must be cast iron.
Thomas

Hi Thomas!

Thanks so much for your comprehensive reply - and the attached docs which I am sure will be invaluable.

I contacted G&S first thing this morning - they seem to be the go-to specialist for valves.

With reference to the C.I spec, I think that is the same grade that I used. I did not perform the heat treatment though - so my fault that the guide had such a short life. I will probably need to do the inlet valve guide too.

I will let you know how I get on.

Thanks once again and Kind regards

Mark

Hi Mark,

I bought the nitrided valves for my 1937 Model 9 from G&S valves. Attached are respective drawings for the valve. The measures are different to your specs. However, that is common for Sunbeams and G&S can make them specifically according to your needs (talk to Andrew Grenside). I had the same problem with the strike angle but you have some freedom for dealing with the valve and push rod lengths. For this I've once written a short article for the Beaming journal. It is attached.

For the guides you need grade 2.50 SG cast iron. Chris Odling said that you need to heat tread it to a dull red (not a bright cherry red) and quench it in water. One should drop it into a water column for even hardening. There are guides available in the club shop, though.

Cheers, Thomas