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Sorry but I am not able to comment on your gearbox oiling question(s) as I lack experience and knowledge.  Chris Odling has supplied sketches to me in the past to show how to adapt wheel bearings to modern bearing races..... and of course could no doubt do the work for you.
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Parts Wanted / Valve Springs
« Last post by Tim on Today at 06:59:01 AM »
Hi,

Would anybody have any good valve springs for a 1928 model 6 500 longstroke? Or know the specifications on them.
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Technical Discussion Forum / Wheel bearings ? & interesting gearbox oil pipe tap
« Last post by Norrie on July 19, 2018, 09:39:31 PM »
Hello All from Scottish new Model 4 owner  ;D
Having had the front wheel off on my recently acquired 1926 Model 4 the bearing cups fixed in the hub are badly pitted and need replacing. Are these cups available? or do current riders/custodians replace with modern sealed bearings and if so what other parts are required in the hub to allow fitment?
This smart looking machine, which was restored overseas, also has a tap in the oil pipe to the gearbox which I haven't seen elsewhere. It looks like it allows oil, other than from the tank via the two way tap, to be fed into the gearbox. See attached.
Changing the oils before trying to start the machine I drained approximately 300mls of oil from the engine but nothing came out from the gearbox. I have heard it should be full of grease or that I should use chain saw oil. The 'Instruction Sheet for Side-valve Sunbeams' sheet I got with the machine tells me that the gearbox requires a pumpful of oil (same oil as engine) about every two or three hundred miles. Is this enough lubrication for a gearbox? Every other motorcycle I have owned the gearbox internals have been pretty well submerged in oil.
Apologises for the beginner questions but I am keen to learn as much as possible before using the machine.
Best wishes
Norrie
       
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Technical Discussion Forum / Re: Magneto sprocket extractor
« Last post by Thomas on July 19, 2018, 10:14:34 AM »
Hi John, I'm not sure if I understand this correctly, but the picture shows my self-made puller made of screws and nuts.
Cheers, Thomas
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Technical Discussion Forum / Magneto sprocket extractor
« Last post by John Cole on July 18, 2018, 01:39:00 PM »
I have trouble removing the sprocket on the magneto, as there is no internal thread on the sprocket itself. It is too close to the casting to get a puller onto it. Therefor I have to undo the magneto holding bolts to get a 2 legged puller engaged.
You can imagine the time it takes to get the nuts back on.  My bike is a 1914 3.1/2 hp. Am I missing something?
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Technical Discussion Forum / Re: How to Fasten Cables to the Frame
« Last post by phutton on July 17, 2018, 05:17:16 PM »
Geoff Brazendale can supply a complete range of the spring clips as use on Sunbeams for fixing cables to the frame. His contact details are in Beaming.

P.
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A very good system but it comes from well before the electronics indutry.  Sailors have been calling this technique COMMON WHIPPING for centuries.  There are also metal slot and bend ties that look a bit more in period and can be painted. See attached image (if I can do the technology for that!)
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Technical Discussion Forum / Re: Steering damper
« Last post by singleminded on July 15, 2018, 10:25:40 PM »
Yes that's the problem with the bottom spindle passing through the bottom nut..I'll post a pic when i can get into the spares box.
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Technical Discussion Forum / Re: Steering damper
« Last post by Steve_M90 on July 15, 2018, 06:43:50 PM »
Thanks for the guidance. I the end it seemed simpler than I imagined. The damper knob came out after some torque was applied. I couldn't fully release the nut at the bottom, I was able to free it off by say 3mm at most. However, this gave adequate access to clear all the accumulated debris out. I have reassembled it dry but I was thinking something might be needed to prevent it rusting. Picture of the clean and reassembled damper attached.

The steering now moves much more freely.

Steve
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Technical Discussion Forum / Re: Steering damper
« Last post by singleminded on July 15, 2018, 06:55:37 AM »
Hi Steve..The first thing to do is remove the damper knob and long stud that goes through the steering head,slacken it off as much as you can and pour releasing oil down the stud so that it can get to the bottom nut that holds the damper plates together. If that won't work you may have to heat the bottom damper nut.
The big problem is that the bottom fitting has an elongated hole through it and the lower rear fork spindle passes through this slot, so to completely strip the steering damper means that you have to partially strip the forks.
On my bike that means jacking the bike up at the front so that the forks fully extend and remove the centre spring, remove the front wheel to reduce the weight and then half remove the lower rear spindle far enough to release the damper assembly.
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