Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
 

Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Beamers General Discussion Forum / Re: Model 95L Ignition timing/valve clearances etc
« Last post by phutton on November 21, 2017, 11:08:36 PM »
Hi Mark,

According to the 1935 Manual, the M95 ignition timing should be 3/4" or 47.5 degrees BTDC. Bearing in mind that modern fuels have a slightly higher octane rating than those in 1935, this probably works ok - mine seems to!

Valve clearances for all the engines, inc M95, should be Inlet 0.004", exhaust 0.010 "

P.
2
Technical Discussion Forum / Chain adjustment bolt
« Last post by Thomas on November 21, 2017, 12:23:49 PM »
Hi all! The tip of my chain adjustment bolt broke. I need a new one. I guess it is 5/16 BSF with a relatively long head. Does somebody know here to get such a bolt?
Cheers, Thomas
3
Beamers General Discussion Forum / Re: Model 95L Ignition timing/valve clearances etc
« Last post by MarkO on November 19, 2017, 09:25:43 PM »
Graham/John

Thanks for your replies. Before I finally set the timing I managed to get hold of Chris Odling who recommended 50 degrees. It seems sensible because I have found that by setting it to 50 degrees, fully retarding the mag gives about 7 degrees BTDC. I will see how it runs. Thanks for the valve clearances, I will try them too.

As for the mag problem, I will just have to somehow make some custom spanners to do the job. I have just finished reading the biography of Burt Munro, of 'The World's fastest Indian' fame. My problems seem trivial after reading about his exploits!

Best regards

Mark Odlum
4
Beamers General Discussion Forum / Re: Model 95L Ignition timing/valve clearances etc
« Last post by shorrog on November 19, 2017, 05:24:57 PM »
Hi Mark
Removing the magneto bolts can be a pain but it is possible with a suitable ring spanner. The question has been asked before and there is a post with photos if you search for Magdyno and look at the post by Thomas it may help.
Graham
5
Technical Discussion Forum / Re: Snapping brake
« Last post by Thomas on November 19, 2017, 05:24:54 PM »
Thank you both for your help. I tested the situation at two positions of the frame stop. At the present regular position where the slot is beaten and at the extreme end which is looking fine. And indeed, s sleeve or a reducer is necessary. I'll go for a reducer of 3mm thickness welded to the inner drum. That will last better and is easier to produce. I did not expect that the play at this point is so crucial. As soon as the reducer is installed I will give an update. Again, many thanks and cheers, Thomas 
6
My Sunbeam handbook states 5/8" or 50 deg for the model 90 but i would be cautious and go with the 46 deg you have suggested..My 9A is set at 9/16" or 43 deg and I find that with modern fuel it is a little advanced, it seems to run a little better with the retard lever a bit off full advance..Each engine will need adjustment to find what is best for it.
Inlet valve clearance according to the book is'The thickness of a cigarette paper' in reality almost nil, i adjust to about  2 thou on the inlet. exhaust is stated at 10 thou with the note that 'as much as 12 thou' on the model 90..john
7
Technical Discussion Forum / Re: Snapping brake
« Last post by singleminded on November 19, 2017, 04:27:37 PM »
You could get someone to weld a little metal to each side of the slot and then file it back to be a snug fit on the anchor peg/bolt. If you fit a sleeve to the anchor point you would still have to file the slot in the brake plate out otherwise you would not be able to adjust the chain tension.Not having tried the amount of play on a bike with a good brake plate how much is too much play will be up to what you feel is acceptable.John
8
Technical Discussion Forum / Re: Snapping brake
« Last post by kbryt on November 19, 2017, 02:57:40 PM »
you will have to sort out a way to put an external sleeve on the frame stop, or a reducer in the slot.
 Just one of the joys of owning an obselete bike.

It exercises the brain.
9
Technical Discussion Forum / Re: Snapping brake
« Last post by Thomas on November 19, 2017, 08:55:36 AM »
Hi Johne!
My description was not specific enough. Sorry for the confusion. With snapping (or may be clanking/jumping) I mean the tendency that the wheel does react on the brake pedal only after jumping over a small play in rotation. And it does that only in driving reaction The three hub bolts are tight. Meanwhile I probably know what you mean with splines It seems that I don't have splines (see attached pics). Correct? 

I also checked the anchor bolt at the frame. The next two pictures show it. It looks as if the anchor is somewhat flattened and the elongated hole in the plate is worn on one side. After your comment about the anchor I opened everything. A loose anchor would match with the wheel movement when the brake is enagaged. The chainguard is definitely not the problem because I still have the problem even when the chain is diconnected. Hence, it indeed looks as if the anchor is the problem.

I now wonder how to solve this trouble. The bolt is welded to the frame and a new plate is not available. In addition, because the bolt should be able to move within the hole there must always be some play. What can I do? Ideas are very welcome.
Cheers, Thomas
10
Technical Discussion Forum / Re: Snapping brake
« Last post by singleminded on November 18, 2017, 11:08:54 PM »
just looked at your video again with the sound turned up high( i'm getting a bit deaf these days). It appears that there IS slack in the brake anchor..Now on the earlier bikes the boss for the brake cam passes through a slot in the frame and that is your anchor. most other makes of bike have a bar that bolts to the drum and the frame to stop the brake backplate from turning..It looks like you have a fully enclosed chainguard and the problem could be inside the guard..John
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10