Hi all!
In the Book of the Sunbeam on page 70 I found the description of the quickly detachable wheel (see first picture). Because I want to learn this procedure I tested it at my front wheel. However, I do not have the described square-headed pins but hexagonal nuts (see second picture) and I can't detach the hub from the brake drum. I did not yet test it for the rear wheel which in my case also have hex nuts. Does somebody know what is going on for a 1937 model 9?
Cheers, Thomas
Looking at the 1937 Instruction manual, it is clear that you are doing the right thing. The manual tells you to "remove the three nuts holding the brake drum to the wheel flange, detach the nut on the centre wheel spindle, withdraw the spindle and the wheel can then be withdrawn form the fork."
Don't forget that the Book of the Sunbeam covers a wide rang of models and years, and not all the illustrations necessarily apply to yours.
P.
Yes, Paul, this is also written in the manual (I have it, too). However, I can't pull the wheel off the drum after loosening the three nuts. The wheel AND the plate with the brake shoes want to come out as a whole. Either the plate sticks to the wheel or the wheel is not quickly detachable at all. If it only sticks I can apply some force, of course, but I do not want to damage something. This is a potential risk if the wheel is indeed to detachable, especially considerung that I do not have the square headed bolds but hex nuts.
Cheers, Thomas
Hi Thomas,
Your wheel certainly looks to be the detachable/interchangeable type, which is correct for a 1937 M9. I suspect that the wheel is stuck to the drum, possibly by paint after restoration, or possibly by rust if it hasn't been restored! It might be worth tapping a blade down between the two components to see if that will separate them.
P.
Thank you, Paul, I will try and follow your advice. Today I took out the rear wheel which was indeed quickly detachable. I consider this astonishing feature as the progenitor of a modern monolever. Very impressive! For the front wheel, though, I have no idea how to do it without a stand below the wheel. I mean, I did it with some wooden blocks below the crankcase. But what about a puncture on the road? Laying it over to the side is problematic with a full tank, isn't it? How is that generally done?
Cheers, Thomas
On my 1932 Beam the front stand is the bottom mudguard stay. Mine should have a spring loaded clip to hold the stay up. You put the bike on the rear stand,release the rear of the front stand and as you lift the bike ease the front stand into place with your foot(or find someone younger to lift as you put the stand in place)..most girder forked bikes used the stay as a front stand,even the early post war ones..Hope this helps..john
The lower mudguard stay can be used as a rudimentary stay!!?? :D Need to see that at home tonight (I'm more and more impressed about the bike). Thanks and cheers, Thomas
I wouldn't worry too much about separating the front brake drum from the wheel hub, Thomas, unless there's a need to for a wheel rebuild or other restoration. As ph says, chances are that it's stuck with paint or rust. Unless you're riding with a sidecar and have a spare wheel you're never going to need to remove the brake drum in the normal course of events. If you do get a front wheel puncture the whole front wheel has to come out anyway once you remove the spindle.
If you do use the front mudguard stay as a stand as it's intended, make sure that it's angled so that if there is any tendency to roll, it rolls the bike backwards. It doesn't take much for a bike to roll forwards off the rear stand :o No, it hasn't happened to me, but I could see it being a possibility ;)
Steve
I have heard of Sunbeams at shows getting a slight nudge from admirers and being pushed forward off the stands, I have seen quite a few with wooden wedges under the front wheel to stop this happening.I always park mine facing uphill for this reason.John
Thank you all. That gives me confidence that everything's ok. Cheers, Thomas