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Technical Discussion Forum / Re: Carburettor restoration
« Last post by singleminded on October 18, 2021, 10:14:26 PM »
Joe the carb for me..he bored the body and supplied  a new slide for about £50 . that was 4 years ago but it's worth talking to him..He's in St Albans.
Technical Discussion Forum / Carburettor restoration
« Last post by Ken wot does the Membership on October 18, 2021, 04:50:47 PM »
Can anyone recommend a good restorer of Amal carbs?  I have a 276 off a 1934 Lion 600 that I think needs some TLC.  I have heard that Martin Bratby in Cannock has not ben well.  Close to the Oxford area even better!  I could go to Burlens and replace most of it but would prefer a good refurbishment.  Thanks.  Ken
Parts Wanted / Wheel hub for a 500/600 1932-1935 Sunbeam
« Last post by klaudius on October 17, 2021, 03:06:41 PM »
Search wheel hub for a 500/600 1932-35 Sunbeam
Even if the bottom bracket was intact, it would have helped me. Does anyone have anything?
Best regards Claudius
Technical Discussion Forum / Re: gear changing on 1926 Longstroke
« Last post by Rick Parkington on October 13, 2021, 07:15:12 PM »
I'd agree, speed is the issue. If your clutch isn't noticeably dragging -ie if you push the bike in gear, clutch withdrawn, it rolls freely - I don't think there's much to be gained by increasing lift and certainly as already said,  slackening the spring won't help and may lead to slip.
I think the clutch stops should be set only to make contact when you pull the lever all the way to the handlebar, otherwise they will be rubbing away pointlessly at every gearchange. If you think about it, they only have any effect when changing into gear from neutral, because they bear on the clutch pressure plate which rotates with the gearbox mainshaft and so, in any gear, the pressure plate rotates with the wheel whether the clutch is in or out and the stops can't stop that!
Someone told me to  think of Sunbeam's three speeds as 'pulling away, town and country' and if you look at it that way it makes more sense. The big flywheels and a bit of ignition retard should see you through most road situations without needing to change down and at junctions, you pull up in top and change into first when stationary, like a car.
On hand change bikes I set the friction on the twistgrip or throttle lever so it doesn't return by itself; that way on a down-change you can leave it a tiny bit open so that when you pull the clutch lever,  the revs rise giving you an automatic throttle blip while your throttle hand is busy with the gear lever. But it doesn't work on Sunbeams, because, I think, the heavy flywheels are too slow to react. So instead whenever I have to change down when rolling,  I pull the clutch,  wait for the revs to drop to tickover and change then. That seems to work on my BT box but I guess it's easier with a close ratio CT and harder with a wide AT.
Cheers Rick   
Technical Discussion Forum / Re: gear changing on 1926 Longstroke
« Last post by Greybeard on October 13, 2021, 07:09:33 PM »
Clutchless changes are possible without any drama on both my AJS G8 and my 1916 Model H Triumph. The Triumph instructions recommend it instead of using the clutch by using the decompressor to reduce engine speed instead of throttling back. Id agree with holding on to top gear - Im always impressed with how these engines will pull away at revs that you know would stall a lesser machine  :)

Technical Discussion Forum / Re: gear changing on 1926 Longstroke
« Last post by singleminded on October 12, 2021, 06:27:15 PM »
As an aside to this as my latest bike is an AJS K8, the instruction book recommends not to change down if your speed is above 15mph.
I have heard of a Register member ( hope it's true) who does clutchless changes using his left hand on the gearlever, I would guess that if you can do that then you would be able to match gearbox and engine speed for noiseless changes, not sure you could reach the lever on saddle tank bikes though.
According to an engineer of the green spark plug company Sunbeam supplied the Model 9 engine with a Champion D9 18mm 1/2 inch reach spark plug

reason beeing that the shorter plug in a longer 3/4 hole would prevent fouling of the plug....

feel free to react on this.

greetings, Hennie
Parts Wanted / Re: 1931 M9 Front Brake Adjuster
« Last post by phutton on October 12, 2021, 11:57:36 AM »
Hi John,

This part is common to the 1930 models also (p/n 5412). Could you ask Chris F to make six in addition to your one and the Spares team will buy the surplus for the Club Shop.

Paul H
Technical Discussion Forum / Exploded View of Single Spring Clutch Model 5 1925
« Last post by shorrog on October 12, 2021, 10:36:32 AM »
Hi Folks. The spares team are currently modeling the Sunbeam Clutches. The image below is an exploded view of the clutch from a 1925 Model 5 single spring clutch.
The main gearbox shaft is only modeled on the bit that sticks out of the gearbox and the left hand boss only on the part that protrudes past the chain case.

At the moment we are investigating how the ratchet is fixed to the inner clutch plate and the model does not include this detail. If anyone does know this please let us know and I will update the model.
Technical Discussion Forum / Re: gear changing on 1926 Longstroke
« Last post by shorrog on October 12, 2021, 10:17:22 AM »
I think it would be worth adjusting the stops slightly to give a little more movement but if you adjust the main spring too much it will end up slipping. Also because they are not constant mesh gearboxes you do have to match the speed but I find that is easier said than done.
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