Paiting /Powder coating wheels

Started by Mike hall, July 17, 2017, 05:17:30 PM

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phutton

Sunbeam wheels were always painted by dipping after they had been assembled, so you will never see an original photo showing bright plated nipples. Powder coating may be the best way for restorations as there is less tendency for runs to form, but a good spray painter can get  a fabulous result with wet paint.

P.

Greybeard

I'd go along with Vic on that one. Powder coating is very dependent on the surface preparation to be long lasting. It's also a swine to remove the next time around  ;)
A good etch primer base coat followed by a 2-pack primer and topcoat is the way to go. If you use a black filler/primer then you don't need too much in the way of top coat which helps reduce chipping. With practice you can also get a superb from-the-gun finish that cellulose struggles to match - unless you're very good at it.

Steve
1916 Triumph Model H
1926 AJS G8 500cc ohv
1937 Sunbeam Lion 500cc
1937 Ariel 500cc
1949 Matchless G80S
1952 BSA A10 Golden Flash
1953 Matchless G9
1953 BSA B31
1961 Matchless G80
1961 AJS M31 De Luxe 650cc
1961 Panther M120 650cc
BMWs R100RT - R80 - 1960 Earles fork R60
1960 Rover P4

VicYouel

Brickwoods (see  suppliers list) do a nice rebuild job with painted spokes and shiny nipples. Their prices are reasonable and it really is not owrth doing it ones self IMHO

I find the diadvantage of powder coating is that when the edge is broken (like fitting a spoke or bolt/spindle) a path is  created for water and corrosion can set in resulting in the powder coating pealing off over time.  So I much prefer 2 pack paint.
Vic


Mike hall

I have never rebuilt a bike with painted wheels.Can anyone advise me as to the best procedure, and the merits of paint versus powder coating?  I am just about to rebuild a B23.